Ormus from the Sea

from http://www.subtleenergies.com/ormus/tw/plants.htm

ORMUS Plants
by Barry Carter

---

In early May of 1997 I learned about a gentleman from the Northwest who knew of some new techniques for making ORMUS. I learned of this gentleman from an ORMUS colleague named John.  John and I arranged to drive up and meet with this fellow.

When we got there we were greeted by a short, dark haired fellow in his late fifties. He gave us permission to record our conversations but requested that we keep his name and contact information anonymous. When we eventually put the methods that he taught us on the Internet we decided to call this gentleman the Essene because he did not want his real name revealed.

The Essene told us that he has always remembered a past life as an Essene on the Dead Sea. He said his first memories of this came when he was living on the coast as a child.

He said that at the age of six, he was allowed to go fishing on the pier by himself. He caught some fish and put them in a bucket but decided to dump them and fill the bucket with ocean water instead. He took this water home and added lye to it till precipitate fell out. Remembering the process from his life on the Dead Sea, he washed the precipitate and ate it. He says that he has been eating this in one form or another till the present.

We learned how to make the white precipitate of sea water using the Wet Method from the Essene on May 18, 1997.

About a year after my first visit with the Essene I wrote an article on ORMUS in Paramagnetic Forest Soils in which I speclated that ORMUS might have amazing agricultural and ecological benefits if applied to plants.

I actually visited the Essene at his place four times. The third time I visited him in October of 2000 he showed me some giant walnuts that he said were grown using the Wet Method ocean water precipitate as a mineral supplement. He called this precipitate C-11 (or Sea-11) because he said it contains eleven m-state elements from sea water.

You can read the story of these giant walnuts here:

M-state Walnuts by Barry Carter

The benefits of ORMUS for plants are generally best realized by the Wet Method precipitate from salt sea water. Here is the Wet Method in review:

• Slowly bring the pH of ocean water, Dead Sea water or raw sea salt (dissolved in water) up to 10.78 and no higher using a tablespoon of lye (sodium hydroxide) dissolved in ½ cup water.
• Let the resulting precipitate settle, siphon the clear water off the top and add fresh water to wash it.
• Repeat the second step three or four more times.

As the pH is raised to 10.78 you will notice that the pH seems to hang for a long time around pH 9.8 - 9.9.  This happens because the lye cannot raise the pH as long as it is being used up in reaction with the ORMUS and magnesium in the sea water. This pH curve looks something like this:

You can also purchase the precipitate from the ORMUS providers which are listed at:

http://www.subtleenergies.com/ormus/tw/sources.htm#2

Once you have the precipitate it is very important to apply it at the appropriate rate. It is typically applied at the rate of one to three gallons per acre (ten to thirty one liters per hectare) for each crop. (This is usually just once a year for trees but will be with each planting for grasses which get multiple cuttings.)

I have calculated the application rates for ORMUS precipitate in agriculture and Sea-Crop, one of the ORMUS providers, also has a page on this at:

http://www.sea-crop.com/application.html

My fourth visit with the Essene in October of 2001 corresponded with the visit of one of the ORMUS producers. He started making the C-Gro (now Sea-Crop) product in 2004. You can see pictures of some of the results of using this product on plants at:

http://www.subtleenergies.com/ormus/tw/c-groplants.htm
http://www.subtleenergies.com/ormus/tw/pears.htm
http://www.subtleenergies.com/ormus/tw/alfalfa.htm

and on the Sea-Crop site.

In August of 2003 I gave a series of presentations on ORMUS in North and South Carolina. These presentations were arranged by Dana Dudley. After hearing about how to do the Wet Method in one of my workshops Dana told me that she was working with some folks who had been using ORMUS precipitate from Great Salt Lake water for plants. Dana contacted these folks and got some ORMUS Oranges from them. These oranges were four and a half times as large as ordinary supermarket oranges.

Home gardeners are also sharing amazing results with the use of ORMUS precipitate on their plants. If you are interested in documenting and sharing the results you are getting with plants I have created a page with helpful suggestions at:

http://www.subtleenergies.com/ormus/tw/documenting.htm

At one of my ORMUS Workshops on May 16, 2004 I showed some folks how to make the ORMUS precipitate with Dead Sea salt. I gave the precipitate I made to several people and one of these people, a woman named Jane, wrote me a note telling me what she had done with the precipitate I made:

From: Jane
Subject: The Rose
Date: Sun, 18 Jul 2004 12:35:00 -0700

The roses are still alive, and growing.  The first went into ORMES right after your second workshop in Kingston [May 16].  The second went into the same solution a month later.  Both were cut long stem roses from the supermarket.

In October of 2004 Jane sent me a video description of this rose plant. The cut rose was still alive and growing in a bottle of water five months after her husband gave it to her.

A gentleman named Ted had several plant boxes on his deck. A couple days after he heard me talk about ORMUS at a lecture in Ashland on May 2, 2005 Ted watered his plants with Pacific Ocean ORMUS precipitate. When I returned to Ashland on May 20, 2005 Ted gave his report on the effects of the precipitate on his plants.

From all of these observations we are quite confident of the following results:

• Cellular respiration is increased
• Phototropism is increased
• Increases photosynthesis
• Increases carbohydrate content of sap
• Increases soil micro flora
• Increases nitrogen fixing bacteria in soil
• Increases phosphorous leaching fungi
• Improves soil tilth and aeration
• More resistant to insects and disease
• Has saved diseased orchards
• Less need for pesticides
• More drought tolerant
• More transplant tolerant
• Fruit is larger and better tasting
• Produce lasts longer on the shelf
• Mineral and vitamin content increased
• Plants produce sooner
• Crop yields are increased
• Application is easy
• Application is inexpensive
• Organic
• Non-toxic
• More resistant to freezing

There are also indications that animals receive great benefits from eating plants which have been grown with ORMUS. In an on-line book titled HEALTH & SURVIVAL IN THE 21st CENTURY by Ross Horne we find the following passage:

Started feeding mice both experimental and control, food that was raised on the Ray Heine and Sons Farm. The experimental food had been raised on soil fertilized with 2200 pounds (per acre) complete sea solids. The control food was the same as the experimental with the exception that it was not fertilized with complete sea solids. The food consisted of a combination of one part soybean, two parts oats, four parts corn, balanced food proteins, carbohydrates and fats for mammals.

C3H mice were obtained for this feeding experiment. This strain of mice has been bred so all the females develop breast cancer which causes their demise. The mice were two months of age when received and started on the feeding experiments. The life expectancy of this strain for females is no more than nine months which included the production of two or three litters. The experimental and control groups both consisted of 200 C3H mice and those fed on control food were all dead within eight months seven days. The experimental mice that were fed food grown on the sea solids fertilized soil lived until they were sacrificed at 16 months; definitive examination revealed no cancer

Though this experiment was done with whole sea solids (including the salt) I think we can presume that these benefits will also apply to animals that eat plants grown with the ORMUS precipitate.

ORMUS CHEMICAL PRODUCTION TECHNIQUES

[Back to first page] This document may not be reproduced except in its entirety, and without changes.  Before trying any of the procedures described in this document, we advise you to thoroughly read this document several times.
This document was created by a group of people who believe that this information is of inestimable value to humanity and should be made widely available as soon as possible. The information here is declared to be in the public domain and we wish that it not become the sole property of any individual or group.
Here we describe some simple ways of making ORMUS so that readers can begin true scientific and intuitive experiments with these materials.
All of these methods are experimental.  The following information is presented to promote scientific research into the nature of these materials. Although these methods are based on our best knowledge at this time, further scientific research may prove some of these processes or theories to be inaccurate.

DISCLAIMER

The processes described here have not all been tested extensively. We do not guarantee the procedures in this document, nor the results obtained by using them. To the extent that you use or implement these procedures or the products thereof, you do so at your own risk. In no event will the authors of this document be liable to you, anyone else, or any organization or government, for any damages arising from your use, or your inability to use these procedures or the product thereof. Apply these procedures at your own risk.

VERIFICATION

The material made by some of these methods has been tested by an independent lab using X-ray fluorescence and photo spectrometry to identify the emission spectra of m-state materials.  (The lab prefers to remain anonymous).  The m-state spectral emissions signature was a broad, flat band rather than discrete lines.  The test also showed a significant amount of calcium and magnesium, but no toxins were evident in well-washed material made from unpolluted ocean water. To further prove that these materials are a different state of the precious elements mentioned above, it is possible to electroplate these elements out as precious metals.
People familiar with Hudson's process claim that the materials produced using these methods are similar to Hudson's ORME materials.

INGESTION

We do not recommend the ingestion of these materials since so little is known about them. This information is being provided so that scientific inquiry can commence into the nature of these materials. We realize that, despite recommendations to the contrary, some people will ingest these materials. With this in mind we offer the following information to minimize any possible adverse effects from ingesting these materials. Please read the WARNING and CAUTION sections. Some people have ingested the m-state materials made by these methods. They suggest that benefits are most likely when dosage is kept small.
Three methods of making ORMUS are described in this document: the WET method, the DRY method, and the BOILING GOLD method. For the materials extracted by the wet and dry procedures, one teaspoon of material, morning and evening, has been found by them to be not harmful over several weeks' time. A much smaller dose, on the order of a few drops a day, would be more appropriate for the material produced by the boiling gold method. We believe that the m-state may be homeopathic, so a much smaller dose may be the safest -- such as 1/64 teaspoon diluted in one quart of pure water, taken two or three ounces once or twice a day.
David Hudson gave some information on dosage in his Dallas speech at: http://monatomic.earth.com/david-hudson/1995-02-dallas-toc.html

WHITEGOLD WEB PAGE

You can find a discussion forum on the WhiteGold Web page. There you can post comments and questions on these procedures, and on ORMUS in general. WhiteGold Web page: http://www.zz.com/WhiteGoldWeb/

INDEX

1. Overview
2. Necessary Supplies
3. pH Paper or pH Meter
4. Safety
5. Wet Method
1.  Starting Materials
6. Problems Encountered
7. Avoiding Problems

More in another document...

---

OVERVIEW

This document describes three methods of producing ORMUS: the WET method, the DRY method, and the BOILING GOLD method. All three methods use a chemical lab technique called "measuring pH."  The pH of a solution is a measure of its acid/base ratio. You may remember testing pH with litmus paper in high school. pH values less than pH 7 indicate an acid, like distilled white vinegar.  pH 7 is neutral, like pure water.  Greater than pH 7 is alkaline, like lye.
ORMUS precipitates between pH 8.5 and 10.78.
The WET method produces the least "effective" material but is relatively simple to perform.
Here is the basic WET method in brief.  It will be discussed later in detail:

1. Start with drinkable water or clean sea water.
2. Slowly add a solution of lye mixed with water to raise the pH above 8.5 but no higher than 10.78.
3. A white fluffy precipitate will form which you should allow to settle overnight.
4. Remove the liquid above the precipitate.
5. Thoroughly wash the precipitate.  It is calcium hydroxide, magnesium hydroxide, and a small amount of m-state material.

Here is the DRY method in brief:

1. Start with dry mineral powder.
2. Boil it in lye water at pH 12.
3. Filter and discard the precipitate.
4. Add distilled white vinegar or hydrochloric acid (HCl) to the filtered liquid to lower the pH to 8.5.
5. Let the precipitate settle overnight.
6. Remove the liquid above the precipitate.
7. Wash the precipitate.  That is calcium hydroxide, magnesium hydroxide, and a small amount of m-state material.

And here is the BOILING GOLD method in brief [the BOILING GOLD METHOD has never worked for those who have tried it and we don't recommend its use]:

1. Boil gold dust in a lye solution.
2. Filter out any solids.
3. Add distilled white vinegar or HCl to the remaining liquid to lower the pH to 8.5.
4. Let the precipitate settle overnight.
5. Remove the liquid above the precipitate.
6. Wash the precipitate.  It is almost pure gold m-state material.

NECESSARY SUPPLIES TO MAKE M-STATE

A glass or stainless steel pot. If you use stainless-steel pots, check for steel particles in your precipitate. Although unlikely, this problem may occur if you use large amounts of HCl to lower the pH. Never use aluminum containers or utensils because aluminum will react with acids like HCl and alkalis like lye, and will poison you. Distilled water from a grocery store.
A stainless steel spatula or knife for stirring, from a grocery store. Never use aluminum containers or utensils because aluminum will react with acids like HCl and alkalis like lye, and will poison you.
A few glass jars.  Tall skinny ones work best.
Lye (sodium hydroxide or NaOH).  We will use the term "lye" in this document rather than "sodium hydroxide" or "NaOH" since it is shorter and more familiar to most people.  Grocery store lye, such as Lewis Red Devil Lye, is not as pure and uncontaminated as laboratory or food-grade lye.  We strongly recommend that laboratory or food grade sodium hydroxide be used if the m-state is intended for ingestion since grocery store lye may contain dangerous contaminants.  Note: Virtually no lye will be present in the final product so it will be safe to ingest.  In any case, lye is not toxic, and it is not caustic when sufficiently diluted (as in these methods).
HCl (hydrochloric acid or muriatic acid).  We will use the term "HCl" in this document rather than "hydrochloric acid" or "muriatic acid" since it is shorter.  You can use muriatic acid (31% HCl) from a hardware store, but laboratory, electronic or food-grade HCl is less likely to be contaminated.  We strongly recommend that laboratory, electronic or food grade hydrocholoric acid be used if the m-state is intended for ingestion since muriatic acid from a hardware store may contain dangerous contaminants.  The presence of iron as a contaminant in the acid may interfere with the m-state materials in some applications.
Three eyedropper bottles from a pharmacy.  An alternative to eyedroppers is squirt bottles made of HDPE.  Find them at a natural foods store or other store which sells bulk liquid products like vegetable oils or lotions.
A large 50 cc plastic syringe from a veterinary supply shop or a lab-supply house. Some suppliers are listed near the end of this document under LAB SUPPLIES.
pH paper or a pH meter.  You can get pH paper (pH 1 to 12) from a lab-supply company or a mining supply store.  Use new paper because old paper becomes inaccurate.  Some suppliers are listed near the end of this document under LAB SUPPLIES.
 
 

pH PAPER OR pH METER?

Some experimenters say not to rely on a pH meter because its readings vary with temperature and ionization.  Also, a meter costs much more than pH paper.  Many pH meter probes can be damaged by very strong acids or alkalis.  But some say that a pH meter is essential, for these reasons:

• pH paper cannot track rapid changes in pH.
• pH paper does not resolve pH readings finely enough.  It's hard to tell the difference between pH 9.5, 10.0, and 11.5.
• pH meters are best used to get accurate readings between pH 8.5 and 10.78, which is the main range of concern in these methods.
• pH meters can spot check any reading with a standard buffer solution.
• a pH meter is more convenient.

Use only a meter that has an automatic temperature-correcting function up to 100 degrees C.

SAFETY TIPS

Clean your containers so that you'd feel safe drinking out of them.  Boil containers, syringes, siphons and so on before use to sterilize them. CAUTION!!
Lye can damage the eyes by rendering the cornea opaque, a form of eye damage that is irreparable.  Lye can burn skin, clothes and eyes.  Work near a sink, faucet, or other source of wash water.  You might keep a spray bottle of distilled white vinegar handy to use against spills.
If you spill lye on your clothes or body, immediately wash it off with lots of water.  When working with lye, avoid touching your face or rubbing your eyes.  Do not handle lye around food. Use adequate ventilation such as a range hood.  Do not dump waste water on the ground.  Lye is generally safe to put down the drain, but don't mix it with any acid that may be in the drain as it can react explosively.
When working with lye, please wear goggles or a full-face visor (an industrial face protector), neoprene gloves, and a PVC lab apron.  Sources for this safety clothing are in the Appendix near the end of this document.
Keep children and pets away from the work area, and do not leave it unattended if children or pets are around.
Glass can shatter with hot liquids.  Pour boiling liquid from your heating container into a stainless steel mixing bowl to cool before pouring the liquid into a glass container.
 

---

THE WET METHOD

STARTING MATERIALS FOR THE WET METHOD

Some starting materials produce a lot of precipitate, while others do not.  Listed below are materials that have been shown to produce some precipitate from the WET method:

• Some municipal drinking water
• Some hot springs water without sulfur
• Trace Minerals Inland Sea Water
• Urine
• Some lake or river water whose bed or course is limestone.
• Some well water.  Ground water is probably more likely to contain m-state than surface water (except for sea water).
• Sea water and sea water reconstituted from certain brands of sea salt, especially from the Great Salt Lake.
• Dead Sea water.
• Certain brands of unrefined sea salt are as good as sea water: Celtic Gray Sea Salt (from health food stores) and Lima Atlantic Sea Salt (from some health food stores).  Add distilled water and use the WET method.  Filter the scum first.

The WET method performed on ocean or Dead Sea water produces eleven different m-state elements. The following materials are ranked in order from most to least m-state content:
  1. Dead Sea water
  2. Salt Lake water
  3. Ocean water
  4. Well water
Listed below are materials that have been found to produce little or no precipitate from the WET method:

• Water from some alkali lakes (pH above 8.5).
• Hot springs with sulfur (because sulfur reduces m-state to metal).
• Mineral-free lake or river water
• Dead Sea mineral salts that contain sulfur or sulfates, such as "Sea Mineral Bath from the Dead Sea" by Dead Sea Works Ltd. for Sea Minerals Co., and Trace Minerals Research "ConcenTrace Trace Mineral Drops" from the Great Salt Lake.

For the following methods to work, some researchers claim that magnesium or magnesium hydroxide -- Mg(OH)2 -- must be present in the starting material.  (Since the Boiling Gold method is effective without any magnesium, this claim will need to be tested.)  Sea water already has Mg(OH)2, so you don't need to add it to sea water.  Try your water first.  If you don't get any precipitate, you might add a teaspoon per gallon of Epsom salts to the starting material for its magnesium.  If you do add Epsom salts, the magnesium from them will be a large portion of the precipitate. WARNING!!
PROBLEMS ENCOUNTERED
The following problems have been encountered by some folks who have made m-state for consumption:

• Some people have gotten quite sick from consuming m-state made from sea water collected at a marina.  This water contained high levels of lead and other contaminants.
• Other people have gotten quite sick from consuming m-state materials which were made improperly.  These materials were made without the use of pH test paper or meters and the resulting material contained toxic metals.  Please remember that old pH paper can become inaccurate.
• People have gotten sick from consuming m-state materials which contained bacteria because they were not sterilized or stored properly.
• It is possible to bring the pH of your source material up too quickly, especially if you use lye in too high a concentration.  This could result in local areas of very high pH within your solution.  These high pH areas could allow toxic metals to precipitate and mix with your desired precipitate.
• M-state platinum might be considered toxic by some since it makes you quite ill if you consume alcohol.  No one has reported this effect from consuming m-state from sea water.
• Some people have used Teflon® coated aluminum sauce pans for heating lye or lye water.  The Teflon® got scratched and the aluminum started dissolving in the lye water producing hydrogen gas which could have exploded.  The liquid was contaminated with aluminum which is a poison.

AVOIDING PROBLEMS

• Use sea water, reconstituted sea water made from sea salt or Dead Sea salt, or salt lake water.  In general, start with a clean and deep source of water.  Some people have gone out to sea in boats to collect sea water from 100 feet deep.
• Generally avoid water that has lead, arsenic or other toxic elements in it.  Start with water that is drinkable except for salt content.
• Conduct an elemental and toxic analysis of questionable starting-material sources (such as seawater collected close to the shore, or near sources of industrial waste runoff).
• Boiling in lye water kills bacteria but it does not destroy toxic metals or chemicals in your source water.
• Follow these instructions and slowly change the pH of your solution.
• Avoid water with sulfur or sulfates in it because such water produces little or no m-state precipitate.
• Never use aluminum containers or utensils because aluminum will react with acids like HCl and alkalis like lye, and could poison you

ORMUS CHEMICAL PRODUCTION TECHNIQUES CONTINUED...

[Back to first page]  [Back to previous page]

•  Wet Method Procedure
•  How to Purify Your Precipitate -- Removing Mg(OH)2
1.  Method 1
2.  Method 2
3.  Method 3
4.  Method 4
•  Dry Method
1.  Extra Supplies
2.  Holder For Filters
3.  Starting Materials
4.  Procedure
•  Boiling Gold Method [The BOILING GOLD METHOD has never worked for those who have tried it and we don't recommend its use.]
1.  Extra Supplies
2.  Procedure
•  Appendix
1.  M-state Storage
2.  Chemical Suppliers
3.  Lab Supplies
4.  Starting-Material Sources

---

WET-METHOD PROCEDURE

Please read CAUTION!! and WARNING!! before proceeding. First you need to prepare a dilute lye solution.  Label an eyedropper bottle or squirt bottle "Lye-poison" so the bottle will not confused with something else.  Work in a sink so that any spills will be contained.  Lye gives off eye-stinging fumes when mixed with water.  To avoid inhaling fumes, hold your breath and wear goggles while doing the following procedure.
Working over a sink, put 8 teaspoons of distilled water in a sturdy glass then stir in 1 teaspoon of lye.  Stir until the lye is dissolved.  Heat will be generated as the lye dissolves and the glass may get fairly hot.  You may want to close your eyes to avoid eye-stinging fumes, taking a peek periodically.
Pour the lye solution into a labeled eyedropper bottle or squirt bottle.
If you are using pH paper, tear off several 1/4" pieces and put them on a piece of white paper on a plate.

For the best accuracy, recalibrate the pH paper throughout the day with changes in temperature and humidity, as well as day-to-day.  Buffer solutions of pH 4, 7 and 10 will help with this.  Sources of pH buffer solutions are listed near the end of this document under LAB SUPPLIES.
If you are using dried sea minerals, mix 1/2 cup of dry material with 2 cups of distilled water.  This makes sea water.  Now proceed as described below:

1. First, you might want to pour the sea water through a coffee filter to remove any scum. 2. If the starting material does not contain magnesium hydroxide (sea water does contain magnesium hydroxide), add some, or add a teaspoon of Epsom salts per gallon of water.
3. Pour the sea water into a stainless steel pot. Slowly, drop-by-drop, add the lye solution WHILE STIRRING. Every ten drops or so, test the pH. You might want to take at least 3 to 5 samples from different regions of the liquid. If you are using pH paper, the goal is to bring the pH up to 9.5, then stop to be on the safe side. If you are using a pH meter, stop just before you get to pH 10.78.
A white precipitate which includes m-state elements will form.
CAUTION: You must proceed slowly and patiently so that you do not exceed pH 10.78 with a meter or pH 9.5 with pH paper. If you go higher than pH 10.78, you might get a "Gilcrest precipitate" of toxic heavy metals. It is alleged that the Dead Sea salt water does not produce any Gilcrest precipitate. This has not been proven and should not be assumed.
4. Once you are at the correct pH, stop.
5. Pour the solution into a clean glass jar or test tube.
6. The white precipitate (slurry) slowly settles on the bottom of the jar. Let the slurry settle overnight. If metals or other toxins have been ruled out by prior testing of your starting material, the slurry is probably mostly calcium hydroxide, Mg(OH)2, lye, and a small amount of m-state.
You can speed this settling process with a centrifuge, which forces the precipitate to settle rapidly. Inexpensive second-hand centrifuges may be found at American Science and Surplus, http://www.sciplus.com.
7. Using a large syringe (or siphon), remove the liquid above the slurry.
8. Add distilled water to the precipitate (filling the jar), stir thoroughly, and let it settle again for at least 4 to 5 hours, preferably overnight.
9. Repeat steps 7 and 8 at least three times to thoroughly wash the precipitate. This should remove almost all of the lye. The remaining lye can be neutralized with HCl or distilled white vinegar as well. Washing three times is intended to reduce the dissolved "impurities" (like salt, for example) by 87.5%. Four washes would provide a 93.75% reduction, five washes a 96.875% reduction, and so on.
At this point, the precipitate is likely to contain some m-state, milk of magnesia Mg(OH)2, calcium, and perhaps some impurities.
Pour the precipitate and water into a stainless steel pot on a stove burner. A gas burner is preferred over electric because any magnetic fields from the electric burner may drive off some of the m-state material. Cover the pot with a lid to contain the m-state, and boil the solution for 5 minutes to sterilize it. Be careful not to spill the hot solution! Let it cool back to room temperature and recheck the pH to make sure it hasn't exceeded pH 9.


DISCUSSION: WHEN TO BOIL THE SOLUTION

In this document, we suggested that you not boil the solution until you have made the washed precipitate. However, boiling can be done earlier in the procedure with certain advantages. Here are four times that boiling could be done, with a discussion of the pros and cons of each: 1. Boil before adding lye solution.
PROS: Faster reaction, faster precipitation. CONS: You may spill the hot lye solution. You may inhale fumes.
2. Boil while adding lye solution.
PROS: Faster reaction, faster precipitation. CONS: You may spill the hot lye solution. You may inhale fumes. Danger of lye spurting out of pot. Not recommended.
3. Boil and cool after adding lye solution.
PROS: No danger of inhaling fumes. Little danger of spilling hot lye solution. CONS: Slower reaction, slower precipitation.
4. Boil the washed precipitate (recommended).
PROS: No danger of inhaling fumes. No danger of spilling hot lye solution. pH is unlikely to change after boiling because the reaction has already taken place. CONS: Slower reaction, slower precipitation. If safety is the main issue, this seems to be the best method.
Caution: If you boil the solution on an electric burner, the magnetic field in the burner may "blow off" some of the m-state materials, resulting in a small yield. This can be minimized by adding a source of sodium (such as sodium hydroxide or salt) to the solution before boiling.
Since sea water contains sodium in salt, none of the boiling methods will be a problem with sea water. However, if you are starting with low-sodium fresh water, add a sodium source (such as table salt or lye solution) before boiling.
Once the precipitate and water have been sterilized, the next step is required to concentrate the m-state.


---

HOW TO PURIFY YOUR PRECIPITATE

[Note - These methods were not well tested before being added to this document. More recent experimentation with these methods reveals that they do not work as suggested and may actually be detrimental to the final product. The "purification" step is not necessary to get good ORMUS precipitate for plant or animal use. Plant experiments suggest that if the precipitate is dried out it no longer has any measurable benefits for plants.

These methods are still included in this document because they might be useful as a basis for some future method of assaying the ORMUS content of the precipitate. The second method seems to work best.]

The precipitate made from sea water contains milk of magnesia (Mg(OH)2), which precipitates approximately around the same pH range that m-state does. Here are four methods to separate Mg(OH)2 from m-state:
 


METHOD 1

1. Suppose you just made a precipitate by adding lye solution to sea water.  The precipitate is m-state mixed with Mg(OH)2. 2. Use a syringe to remove the liquid over the precipitate, and discard the liquid.  This leaves only the m-state/Mg(OH)2 precipitate.
3. To the wet precipitate, add hydrochloric acid (HCl) until you reduce the pH to 1.0 - 3.5.  You can use muriatic acid (31% HCl) from a hardware store, but lab-grade HCl is less likely to be contaminated. A safe alternative to HCl is distilled white vinegar.
4. The white colloidal precipitate should dissolve, leaving a clear solution.
5. Add lye solution VERY SLOWLY drop-by-drop to bring the pH back up to 8.5 - 8.7.  The precipitate that forms should be m-state mostly free of Mg(OH)2 (because m-state precipitates in this pH range, and Mg(OH)2 does not precipitate until pH 9.)
Note that your total yield may be diminished because you are not going past pH 8.7.
6. Remove the liquid above the precipitate, and wash the precipitate.  It should be mostly m-state.


METHOD 2

This procedure removes the Mg(OH)2 by dissolving it below pH 9. First get some HCl (or muriatic acid) and coffee filters. A safer alternative to HCl is distilled white vinegar. 1. Dry the precipitate in a dark oven at about 275 degrees F for one or two hours.  This forms a dry powder.
2. Take the dry powder and pulverize out any clumps.
3. In a glass container, cover the powder with some distilled water.  For example, one liter of water for one cup of powder.
4. Add HCl or distilled white vinegar drop-by-drop to bring the pH to 5 or 6.
5. Shake the bottle and let it sit overnight.  The dried m-state should not dissolve at that pH, but the Mg(OH)2 should dissolve.
6. The next day, after all the Mg(OH)2 has dissolved, pour everything into filter paper.
7. Wash the powder collected in the filter paper several times with distilled water to remove any residual traces of HCl or vinegar.
8. The washed powder may be oven-dried again at about 275 degrees F, and you should have m-state powder free of Mg(OH)2.


METHOD 3

1. Dry the original precipitate at about 200 degrees F. 2. Mix the resulting powder with distilled white vinegar or 30% HCl. Everything which does not dissolve in m-state. This will be quite a small amount if you start with sea water. (If you mix pure HCl with distilled water, remember: ADD ACID TO WATER, NEVER ADD WATER TO ACID).
3. Measure the amount of HCl/m-state solution (or vinegar/m-state solution).
4. Add distilled water to the HCl/m-state solution. Add an amount of water that is at least ten times the amount of HCl/m-state solution. (You may substitute distilled white vinegar for HCl).
5. Filter the solution through 5 layers of coffee filters.
6. Wash the powder at least three times in a large amount of distilled water.


METHOD 4

1. Starting with clean wet precipitate, add lye to bring the pH up to 12.  The m-state precipitate will dissolve, but magnesium hydroxide and the Gilcrest precipitate will not. 2. Filter out the precipitate.
3. To the remaining liquid containing only m-state, add HCl or distilled white vinegar drop-by-drop until the pH reaches 8.5.
4. Add lye solution drop-by-drop to bring the pH back up to 10.78.  The resulting precipitate should be only m-state.
5. Wash the precipitate as described earlier.
6. To be safe, check the pH of the precipitate slurry. It should be 9 or less before ingesting.
 

---

DRY METHOD

Please read CAUTION!! and WARNING!! before proceeding. This method takes longer than the WET method. In some cases, it involves boiling lye for several hours, which may spray some caustic solution around your work area.  Please wear neoprene gloves, a PVC lab apron, and eye goggles when you use this method.  Sources for this safety clothing are listed near the end of this document under LAB SUPPLIES.
Some people have reported adverse reactions to the WET method precipitate or powder. This may be due to the Gilcrest precipitates which occur above pH 11.5. The DRY method removes the dangerous Gilcrest precipitates, so it results in safer material.


EXTRA SUPPLIES NEEDED FOR THE DRY METHOD

12-cup coffee filters from a grocery store. Hydrochloric acid.  You can use muriatic acid (31% HCl) from a hardware store, but lab-grade HCl is less likely to be contaminated.  Other acids can be used, but HCl will not harm the body if accidentally ingested in weak solutions and in small amounts. You might prefer to use distilled white vinegar instead of HCl. Although distilled white vinegar (acetic acid) is weaker than HCl, is it safer to work with.
Heavy plastic HDPE cottage cheese containers, 1 pint and 1 quart, to hold the coffee filters.


MAKING A HOLDER FOR THE COFFEE FILTERS

1. Start with a pint and a quart container for cottage cheese. Make sure the pint container will fit into the quart container. The pint container should hang inside the lip of the quart container. 2. Across the bottom of the pint container, punch or drill several holes, 1/8" to 1/4" diameter, about 1/4" apart.
3. If the small container fits too tightly into the larger container, you may need to drill some air-pressure equalization holes around the outside of the large container near the level of the bottom of the small container.  Otherwise the air pressure between the two containers will keep liquid from draining from the coffee filters.  When you use this filter, place the cottage cheese containers in a stainless steel or glass container to catch any overflow.  The lye water that you will be filtering may damage counter tops or cabinets if it contacts them.
4. The coffee filters should fit nicely into the smaller top cottage-cheese container.

DRY METHOD STARTING MATERIALS

Generally start with dry material such as sweepings from salt and alkali flats, rock powders, limestone, mineral salts, Isis or Etherium white gold powder, volcanic ash, plant cinders, etc. These are some materials that produce a lot of precipitate from the DRY method:

• Crushed, unheated limestone (Caution: agricultural grade powdered limestone from some sources contains sufficient lead and/or arsenic to be a potential hazard)
• Golden Nectar trace mineral formula
• Etherium/Isis Gold powder
• Ancient Secrets Dead Sea Mineral Salts
• Masada salts (unscented)

DRY-METHOD PROCEDURE

Please read CAUTION!! and WARNING!! before proceeding. First you need to prepare a dilute lye solution.  Label an eyedropper bottle or squirt bottle "Lye-poison" so the bottle will not confused with something else.  Work in a sink so that any spills will be contained.  Lye gives off eye-stinging fumes when mixed with water.  To avoid inhaling fumes, hold your breath and wear goggles while doing the following procedure.
Working over a sink, put 8 teaspoons of distilled water in a sturdy glass then stir in 1 teaspoon of lye.  Stir until the lye is dissolved.  Heat will be generated as the lye dissolves and the glass may get fairly hot.  You may want to close your eyes to avoid eye-stinging fumes, taking a peek periodically.
Pour the lye solution into a labeled eyedropper bottle or squirt bottle.
If you are using pH paper, tear off several 1/4" pieces and put them on a piece of white paper on a plate (as illustrated above).  Now proceed as described below:
 

1. Grind the starting material to a fine powder. 2. Add 1:4 lye solution to cover the dry material with a thin layer.
3. Stir in some distilled water to cover the powder and lye by 2 inches.
4. Bring to a boil (this is best done outdoors or in an exhaust hood).  The pH should be at or slightly above 12.  The lye brings the m-state elements into solution while leaving the Gilcrest precipitates as solids.
NOTE: If you start with sea salt, you can omit the boiling step with its noxious fumes, and simply let the solution sit for three days. Then go directly to Step 7. (Some other starting materials might also react without boiling).
5. If you are boiling the solution, replace water as needed to maintain sufficient reactant volume.
6. Boil for several hours -- the longer the better -- in a closed container.  The container may be open if you add liquid as needed.  Four hours should be sufficient for Etherium/Isis material.
7. Strain the slurry through 3 to 5 layers of coffee filters. You are removing the toxic elements (Gilcrest precipitate) that precipitate above pH 11.5.
Save the liquid that passes through the filters.  Most m-state present will be in solution in the liquid.
8. While stirring the liquid, slowly add HCl or distilled white vinegar to bring the pH down to 8.5.  A white precipitate forms which is partly m-state.
If you go too far, the pH will abruptly shift, and you will have to start over.  If this happens you must add lye quickly and bring the pH back up to 12.
9. Let the precipitate settle overnight.
10. Using a large syringe (or a siphon), remove the liquid above the slurry.
11. Add distilled water to the precipitate (filling the jar), stir thoroughly, and let it settle again for at least 4 to 5 hours, preferably overnight.
12. Repeat steps 10 and 11 at least three times to thoroughly wash the precipitate.  This removes most traces of lye and HCl (or vinegar).
You'll get a wet, white precipitate (slurry) containing m-state elements.  Check that the pH is 9 or less before ingesting.  Some of the precipitate may be milk of magnesia or calcium.  If you wish, you can remove them using the precipitate purification procedures described above.

---

BOILING-GOLD METHOD [The BOILING GOLD METHOD has never worked for those who have tried it and we don't recommend its use.]

Please read CAUTION!! and WARNING!! before proceeding. This method produces pure gold ORMUS.  With this method, you must boil some lye solution for one to two weeks.  This may spray some caustic solution around your working area.  Please wear neoprene gloves, a PVC lab apron, and eye goggles when you use this method.  Sources for this safety clothing are noted under LAB SUPPLIES near the end of this document.


EXTRA SUPPLIES NEEDED FOR THE BOILING-GOLD METHOD

Coffee filters from a grocery store. Hydrochloric acid (HCl).  You can use muriatic acid (31% HCl) from a hardware store, but lab-grade HCl is less likely to be contaminated. Instead of HCl, you might prefer to use distilled white vinegar (acetic acid). Distilled white vinegar is weaker than HCl but is safer to use.
A stainless steel pot or glass pot will work, but stainless steel and glass are attacked by NaOH. Glass is preferred over stainless steel.
A preferred container is a sealed Teflon® or HDPE bottle in a water bath in a crock pot.  Please note that a Teflon® bottle is NOT the same as a Teflon® coated aluminum container.  Never use aluminum or Teflon® coated aluminum containers and utensils because aluminum will react with acids like HCl and alkalis like lye, and will poison you.
If you use a sealed Teflon® or HDPE bottle in a water bath fill it only half full with your lye and gold then squeeze the bottle to eliminate most of the air above the liquid before you tighten the cap.  This will allow the bottle to expand as the liquid is heated.


PROCEDURE FOR THE BOILING-GOLD METHOD

1. Add 99.99% pure gold dust to a lye solution of pH 12 or more. 2. Boil the solution for two weeks in a CLOSED container.  One week may be sufficient, but two weeks will likely have a higher yield.  Add water as needed.  CAUTION: Do not inhale the vapors!
3. Strain the solution using the coffee filter holder described above. Save any remaining gold for future use.
4. Add HCl or distilled white vinegar to bring the pH down to pH 8.5.  An off-white precipitate will appear.  Let it settle overnight.
5. Using a syringe, carefully suck out the liquid above the precipitate.
6. Add distilled water to the precipitate (filling the jar), stir thoroughly, and let it settle again for at least 4 to 5 hours, preferably overnight.
7. Repeat steps 5 and 6 at least three times to thoroughly wash the precipitate.
 

---

APPENDIX

M-STATE STORAGE

Store m-state materials in * Glass mason jars with wire-clamped glass lids and rubber gaskets
* Glass jars with plastic lids, or
* HDPE containers, which are stable in acid and alkali
Store m-state materials in the dark away from sunlight or ultraviolet light. Ultraviolet  light seems to move some m-state materials toward a metallic state.
Because m-state materials are superconductors, they should be stored in glass or HDPE containers inside of steel containers and away from moving magnetic fields. Put the glass or HDPE container (containing m-state) inside a steel tin such as those used for Christmas cookies, gourmet popcorn or potato chips. If you intend to transport m-state materials, it is best to nest three or four steel containers, one inside the other with insulating material between, and place the glass or HDPE container inside the inmost steel container.
You may notice that your m-state materials have bubbles rising from them for a period of time after they are made.  We believe that these bubbles are m-state gas escaping.  Some people have reported that the m-state precipitate loses some of its effect as these bubbles leave.  This off-gassing seems to be reduced if the m-state is stored between room temperature and body temperature in a magnetically shielded container.  It is advisable not to refrigerate m-state materials.  At least one researcher reports that refrigerated m-state materials are likely to move toward a warmer place.
Since bacteria and mold can easily grow in m-state precipitate, it is best to sterilize any material which you wish to store for long periods of time and to store it using water bath canning methods.


CHEMICAL SUPPLIERS

Mowre W.E. Co.
1425 University Ave.
St. Paul, MN 55104
800-544-1550 (646-1895) This supplier sells gold bullion, gold wire, gold shot, etc. They sell to individuals through the mail and will process small orders. Good prices. _________________________________________________
Strem Chemicals, Inc.
Dexter Industrial Park
7 Mulliken Way
Newburyport, MA 01950-4098
info@strem.com
http://www.strem.com
No minimum order.
(978) 462-3191
(800) 647-8736
Some sample products:
93-7915  Gold powder (99.95%)  500 mg $50.  2g $160.
93-7913  Gold shot (99.95%)   500 mg $40.  2g $128.


LAB SUPPLIES

Cole-Parmer Instrument Co.  800-323-4340. Weiss Research Inc.
P.O. Box 720109
Houston, TX 77272
1-888-44-Weiss and fax: 281-879-9666 (24/7 fax)
http://www.weissresearch.com
They have a $175 pH meter (# PHM-150) with auto temperature compensation from 0 to 100 degrees C, and a pH meter with manual temperature conversion for $125.
McMaster-Carr Supply Co.
P.O. Box 4355
Chicago, IL 60680-4355
630-833-0300
fax 708-834-9427
http://www.mcmaster.com
McMaster-Carr Supply Co.
P.O. Box 54960
Los Angeles, CA 90054-0960
Sales & Customer Service: 562-692-5911
Fax: 562-695-2323 (24/7 fax)
Plastic syringe 50 cc with tapered tip  7510A665  pkg. of 10 $18.57
Neoprene gloves 5278T3 (S,M,L,XL,XXL)
Neoprene Rubber gloves 5283T6 (M,L,XL) size needs to be specified.
Wide-range pH test paper  8707T11  $8.89
PVC apron  53445T75  $4.55
Safety goggles with a face shield  5422T12  $18.94.
Also available are a pocket pH meter for $59, pH solutions,
water-test kits, hot plates, plastic tubing, and much more.
No minimum order.  They sell to anyone and take VISA.
Edmund Scientific Company
101 East Gloucester Pike
Barrington, NJ 08007-1380 USA
Customer service: 1-609-573-6260  9 AM to 5 PM M-F
Disposable plastic syringes are available at many veterinary and agricultural supply stores.  Plastic infusion tips are available from the same source.
More sources can be found at:
http://monatomic.earth.com/database/lab-sources/


STARTING-MATERIAL SOURCES

Sea water: Sigma Chemical.  $10/liter.  From the Gulf of Mexico.
Sterile.   http://www.sigma.sial.com/Sea salt to reconstitute sea water: Health-food store, oriental food store.
Target Glacial Rock Dust from Gaia Resources in Grand Forks, BC, Canada.
Get gold from a coin dealer.
Get gold dust by panning for it in a stream.
Gold dust might be available from Keene Engineering in Northridge, CA.
See CHEMICAL SUPPLIERS earlier in this Appendix.
Also check out a gold mining supply store.
In California try http://www.treasurenet.com/calgold/prospect.html
The gold should be at least 99.99% pure gold.
Golden Nectar (trace minerals).  $40/gallon.
http://bulksales.com/index.htm
This may be at health food stores.
Trace Minerals Inland Sea Water ($7 for 8 ounces) at your local health food store.
Trace Minerals Research, P.O. Box 429, Roy,
UT 84076.
http://www.traceminerals.com
http://bulksales.com
Etherium white powder gold: http://www.etheriumgold.com/
phone 530-272-1511
Isis white powder gold: http://onlinehealth.web2010.com/isis.html


---


[Back to first page]  [Back to previous page][Go to Addendum]